We arrived by sea. That’s the only way you can arrive at Hydra—there are no cars, no motorbikes, not even bicycles. Just the clatter of donkeys’ hooves on stone alleys and the soft splash of boats nuzzling the harbour.
It was our honeymoon, and after the intense chaos that characterises the lead up to your wedding, we were looking for some much needed chill. As we stepped off the ferry, we weren’t quite sure how much of that relaxation we were going to get. Despite it being a Monday in early summer, the port was bustling; suitcases rolling, waiters weaving through crowded terraces and children chasing pigeons. We dragged our bags over the cobblestones to our accommodation, Bratsera Hotel, a thankfully short distance away; and as we ducked into the hotel courtyard, we were pleased to feel the vibe quickly soften to a quiet oasis.
Bratsera is an old sponge factory turned boutique hotel. Whitewashed walls, shuttered windows, a central pool wrapped in trees and trailing flowers. We were upgraded to one of the suites—spacious, split-level, with a Juliet balcony and super quiet due to the thick stone walls. Each morning, we lingered over long breakfasts of honey-drizzled yogurt and proper Greek coffee, served beside the pool in the shade
I’d chosen Hydra for our honeymoon partly for its artistic heart. I’d read that Leonard Cohen had bought a house here in the 60’s; a simple, whitewashed building, initially devoid of water and electricity but with a piano and a sea view. As you wander further from the port, and the commotion fades into stillness, it’s easy to see why he stayed for seven years.
The island also honors the legacy of Dimitris Tetsis, the celebrated Hydra-born painter whose family home has been donated to the National Historical Museum and is now open to visitors. We stepped through his home like guests, his brushes and palettes still poised at the ready in his studio. Even now, new artists leave their mark. Jeff Koons’ Apollo Wind Spinner—a kinetic sculpture of steel and bronze—spins slowly above the DESTE Foundation’s former slaughterhouse, now a contemporary art space perched dramatically above the sea. I was gutted DESTE hadn’t opened yet for the summer when we visited, but each year the Foundation hosts a series of contemporary art exhibitions on the island.
Hydra’s wild edges seem to echo its artistic spirit. Hydra isn’t a beach destination in the typical sense. Its charm lies in the rugged coastline—rocky paths, sun-bleached steps, swimming ladders bolted into stone. On our first afternoon, we followed the coastal trail west, in search of a swim spot. The sea was luminous—clear enough to see your shadow on the seafloor. We ended up at Avlaki beach but it was the tiny rocky ledge below Hydronetta, an unpretentious beach bar tucked just past the cannons, that became our favorite
We generally avoided the midday crowds by lounging at the hotel pool and saved our swims for golden hour, when the light mellowed and the cliffs glowed. There was something deeply satisfying about walking home through the warm air, hair wet with salt, the island winding down with us.
For a more elevated beach day, we also visited the Four Seasons—not the chain, but a stylish local hotel tucked in a secluded bay. We rented sun loungers for the afternoon (sit on the left-hand side facing the sea; it’s much quieter). During the week, it was dreamy. On weekends, it’s a bit of a scene. Loop in a meal at their restaurant—but book ahead.
Food on Hydra is everywhere, but finding something to rival the meals we’d had in Athens took some trial and error. Techne stood out—a refined dinner on a hillside terrace with views of the sea bathed in the pink of dusk. However, our favorite meal of the trip surprised us: Bratsera Tapas, our own hotel restaurant. The name is misleading—it’s not really a tapas place. Recently reimagined with a new chef and manager, it felt like a secret still under the radar. Elegant dishes, well-executed, served quietly under the stars with good wine. We returned twice.
For something more casual (and often necessary), we devoured gyros from …and Onion. No frills, just exactly what you want after a swim and a beer.
Our honeymoon on Hydra was simple, we ate, swam, wandered slowly and read countless books. It was a small pause in a loud season — and just the right beginning.
un-hurried 